Aug 2008

Arriving in Hue with a sore back, ridden with flea bites, and gaining no sleep after a 12 hour bus ride, did not produce a happy traveller. However, life goes on, and my friend David and I checked into a hotel in the most touristy part of Hue.

After renting a motorbike and buying a map of Hue, we rode down to the Imperial City, the former palace of the Nguyen Dynasty. The Imperial City has been partly destroyed and never restored due to attacks during the Vietnam War, however this city still retains it's historical charm.

It's Citadel is one of the main attractions......

However, some temples were destroyed and never to be seen again....

The Imperial City is surrounded by a large moat, with small bridges providing access for the public. Inside the walls, it is like a normal part of any Vietnamese city, with street vendors, housing, plus lots of temples and trees.

The Citadel draws in huge tourist crowds each day, making Hue an extremely busy city despite its small population of only 800,000 ish people.

Leaving the Citadel area, you can see that Hue's biggest bridge is rather brilliant at night time...

Day 2 in Hue, and we decided that something less touristy was on the agenda. We grabbed our map and looked for a road. A road less travelled. We decided on a road that took us out to the East coast of Vietnam.

After 30, 40 minutes of driving, we hit a township - Thuan An. And its deserted beach.

We bought a fresh and healthy snack....

And could really enjoy the sun with the locals

We continued on a couple of hours later heading south down the coast, until we decided we may just be driving till it's dark. So we found a quiet little cafe with some views that you won't find in Hanoi......

Several beaches along the way were somewhat ruined by ton's of rubbish.

Yet we did find an old cemetary that looked inland.

Heading back north and east along Route 49, we found ourselves back in Hue City, but without reason to take a break. So, again, looking at our trusty map of Hue and it's beautiful surroundings, we found ourselves on a ride up into the mountains until we hit Lang Khai Dinh Museum.

The Museum is the burial ground for Emperor Bao and with it's fine architecture and stunning views, it is sure to impress even the most sceptical traveller.....

Although we were yet again off the beaten track to reach this museum high up in the mountains, the amount of tourists was astounding.

We continued on driving up further through the "countryside" until we spotted a rather large statue....

It took us another 20 or so minutes and lot's of u-turns until we found this statue. Past a small village and through some gates, we reached it. Unfortunately, nobody spoke English and signs were all in Vietnamese, so I can't even tell you the story behind it.

We got to the top at the perfect time just half an hour or so before sunset...

Back to Hue for one more night, we hit a local Western restaurant (with only Vietnamese people) and listened to some comparatively old (2-5 years) one hit wonders and classic hits.

Danang was only 3 hours away on the train, and getting a hotel was rather easy. Not many tourists in this city. A city that doesn't even seem part of Vietnam. Resorts and hotel's line the beach shore, while electronic billboards and advertisement's for Western products grace the banks of the Han River. It's footpath's and road's are wide, and rubbish bins are actually splayed in various places around the city (unlike Hanoi or Saigon where finding a bin is a difficult task).

Danang City at day could be considered a coastal resort town......

While at night, next to the Han River, it draws in couple's on motorbikes needing a quiet moment together.

This clean and quiet city surprised me, and appeared to be ahead of its game. 10 minutes out of the main city, and you hit the beach.

Deserted at 3pm.....

Packed at 5pm...

10,000 VND (80cents) for some deck chairs, and 30,000 VND ($2) for lunch. Well, actually a feast....

Yes, the squid was freshly caught from the ocean right in front of us and the rice biscuity thing that I am holding was actually bigger than me.

Unfortunately David wouldn't eat the whole chilli, despite offering him an easy 1 mill (VND).

The Marble Mountains just 20 minutes m-bike drive out of Danang city is still yet to develop as a major tourist drawcard. The good thing is that it has not yet been "changed" to cater for the tourist market.

There are five "Marble Mountains" representing the five elements - metal, wood, water, fire and earth. We visited the biggest - water.

Climbing the 157 steps up the mountain wasn't nearly as bad as I complained about at the bottom. The steps were carved over 200 years ago, along with all the temples, Buddha's and all forms of architecture on the mountain. Rather impressive I must say.

Hell is only a small drop below.....

But it's ok, as heaven is, well, heaven......

Oh and just to clarify, and these are names given by the Buddhist monks when the mountains were built, not me.

The story of Buddha is shown by this template.

One hand points to hell, one hand points to heaven. Buddha was born on the earth.

The mountain continued to impress us, until we hit the end. Local food vendors threw their rubbish down the mountain into a sort of abyss.

Leaving Marble Mountain was difficult, as we were surrounded by several shops selling marble statues. Unfortunately for us, they do not realise that getting a 100 kilo marble lion through customs is not a particularly easy task.

Back through Danang City, we headed North towards Son Tra Peninsula, a mountaineous area full of resorts and beaches. We rode up further and further until finding a quiet little spot on the water where we could relax.

I was even offered some delicious fruit which was a fantastic contrast to my green dress. However I don't know the English word for it, and don't know how to spell the Vietnamese word.

Further up the mountain and we found another temple providing some great views of the coast.

But yes, lots of construction going on, with some questionable scaffolding.

Back down the mountains after 2 hours or so exploring the peninsula.......

...... we headed into Danang city. Back home to Hanoi on the train took 16 hours, but I did get some sleep, and ready to see the kids at school again (who I have missed dearly!).

One more photo that I almost forgot. This photo is for my Dad.

On a motorbike, and proudly wearing my Vietnamese cap!

Love.
Cat.

Yes, it is my second time in Halong Bay, however this time, it is summer! Very very hot, but the views, the scenery, the whole thing just makes you forget about how uncomfortably hot and sweaty you are.

At the end of the caves, there was a nice rest break under the canopy, providing cool relief from the sun!

Trekking through Cat Ba National Park after getting up at 6am was a rather difficult task. The mountain was extremely steep, and rather daunting at times.......

....however at the top I climbed a very rusty and old tower and again more incredible views:

But hard work does not go unrewarded (what's that old Korowa saying? "No reward without effort!"). Monkey Island provided a rather busy haven to swim in the bay....with monkeys. Ok, not really with the monkey's, but we SAW many monkey's. But wait a minute! Don't get too close!

And chilling out on the beach is just magnificent....

And yet again, just like every day in this country, my afternoon did not go without it's random adventures, explained by this series of photos.

(1) I really want to get on this boat! But how?

(2)
Cat - "Is this your boat?"
Vietnamese guy - "Yes! Yes! My boat!"
Cat - "I wanna jump off it!"
Vietnamese guy - "I help you! I help you!"

(3)
Uh oh, policeman! Policeman!
Time to get off the boat!

(4) Yes, we got back on the boat.....

(5) Uh oh, policeman comes back. Looks very angry. Policeman begins to throw rocks at the boat, then proceeds to glare at me until I swim away as fast as possible.

The Vietnamese guy said it was his boat? How was I supposed to know? Maybe that can be my motto - "When all else fails.....claim ignorance".

Yes, another eventful afternoon on Monkey Island in this paradise, followed by a night sleeping on the boat, some kayaking in the very early morning......

...then some more relaxing under the sun before returning to Hanoi.

If you're still sceptical about Halong Bay, check this out......

Enjoy.

Love.
Cat.

Ninh Binh is in the Red River Delta region of North Vietnam. Goat meat is its local delicacy, while touring brings in outstanding views of its beautiful National parks, temples and pagodas, and wetlands that show you the true countryside of Vietnam.

Qyunh, a Vietnamese friend, was kind enough to take myself and two other international volunteers to stay at her parent's home in the town that is Ninh Binh. Qyunh's family were true hosts, cooking delicious food, while providing very comfortable accommodation. And yes, I did try goat meat. Although that is where I draw the line. No dog meat, cow tail or pig's feet for me!! These are just some of the "exotic" meats that are sold in Vietnam.

A visit to Tam Coc brought in more magnificent scenery. 60,000 VND included four boat rides, entrance to several Pagoda's, and the opportunity to visit the caves there. Rather than the traditional walk through sky high caves, we were rowed through very dark, very low caves in between different parts of the lake.

These Vietnamese women must have extremely strong arm muscles, as they rowed us (one boat of three Western people, and one boat of three Vietnamese), around for a couple of hours.

However I guess they get to work in these sort of conditions!

When we got a break onto land, I got to do this:

Then hopped back on the boat, and relaxed viewing magnificent architecture such as this pagoda:

Tam Coc was very beautiful, although it did take it's toll on my body! More mosquito bites, more walking up and down many stairs, and more heat. However, no complaints! I recommend this small "undiscovered by tourists" destination to anyone.

The Phat Diem Cathedral was less painful, as we only did a small amount of walking, and lots of sitting (on the bus). At first I thought the Cathedral was actually a Buddhist temple, as that is what it looks like on the outside. Qyunh could not explain it very well in English either.

However on closer inspection, you can see a cross at the top and once you go outside, it is so obviously a Catholic church. Very beautiful architecture shown here.

Mass was being held while we were there, so there were several Vietnamese waiting for mass to finish so they could go inside. These kids entertained me while I waited to go inside the Church.

Those kids looked like they were doing what they were told, however these boys hung around lying in a hammock picking fruit off the trees.

The Cathedral drew in a large crowd, yet there were some spots so quiet you could actually hear yourself think:

Another beautiful day out, and not too hot.

Only 2 hours back to Hanoi, but with many memories of a Qyunh's generous family, some amazing architecture, and magnificent scenery.

Before I sign off, I'll attach a photo of the friends that I have made while here. There are only a couple of international volunteers, and the others are all Vietnamese.

And, one last thing - a trip to a Western Supermarket could not go undocumented!

Lots and lots of different brands of water, catering to foreigners, and I recommend La Vie, or Aquafina.

Love.
Cat.

The kids have now discovered the use of the video function on our digital cameras. On uploading my pictures to my laptop, I discovered 8 videos that they filmed of them dancing, hitting each other, laughing, playing and whatever else kids get up to.

Anyway, here are some more pictures of the kids, other volunteers and myself at the school on our teaching mornings.

As you can see, the pictures are endless, but they display an emotion that is only shown in the presence of children. Children that have so little, yet give so much. They give you an energy, a vibe, and have this power over you that causes you to feel so content with everything around you.

Viva La Vida!

Love.
Cat.

Mai Am school is a school for street children, abandoned children, and even orphaned children. All classes are provided free, and some children sleep at the school.

They are the most enthusiastic group of people (people, not just children) that I have ever met. What a delight to go and visit their community. I think everyone can learn something from these children. Their school facilities are nothing like to what I am used to, their clothes are dirty, and some of them do not even have a family. Some lack basic health care, particularly dental care.

However, they smile. They smile a lot. And they are happy. They will bring a smile to anybody’s face. There is one boy, who really impressed me. His name is Anh. His English is just fantastic, but he’s probably only 7 or 8.

He gives me a hug every day, and is so unbelievably polite. He repeats and remembers words that he learns in class, and does not complain. What a little champion of a child, with so so much potential.

These are kids who go to school in the morning (7-11ish) then go and work in the afternoon selling whatever they can. If they don't have a home to go to, they stay at the school.

The kids ages range from around 3 to I think about 13. The oldest and biggest boy is really difficult, and probably has some sort of learning difficulty. There are a couple of kids that are so ridiculously small, however they display this attitude that says “I’m tough, I’m big, and I can do what I like!” (sounds like my dog, Bella).

The boy at the front in the shirt, is so small. He leaves school by himself, with this huge satchel bag on his back that is half the size of him. He crosses the street alone, avoiding motorbikes, cyclos and cars and walks home with this "Life is great" attitude. What a champion.

There were three of us (international volunteers) at the school, and as soon as we walked in, they clung to us. Climbing on us, jumping on us, and “man!”, within three minutes I was exhausted and sweating again.

Teaching is awesome. Nir, Keren and myself take the class together, and it’s heaps of fun.

As you can see, there were lots of photos taken. The kids hijacked our cameras. It's quite funny to watch a 3 year old whose not even a metre tall, use a brand new digital camera and actually take decent photos!

What a fantastic bunch of kids, and I love being around them. They bring a smile to my face. These kids are the future of Vietnam (or wherever else for that matter) and they show huge potential in an extremely challenging situation. These kids need to be mature and adult when they shouldn't have to. However, kids will be kids. They see the good in everything, and do not judge.

A few volunteers are off to Ninh Binh this weekend. We were going to go to Halong Bay, however the weather is not suitable (storming). So Halong Bay next weekend. It will be nice to get out of Hanoi. When we were on Ba Be Lake, I really appreciated the silence!! (well in comparison to Hanoi it was quiet!).

One more photo: dinner time!

Yes, my back is very sore and I need a massage every day, however I am getting used to sitting and sleeping on the floor. I do miss sitting on a couch, and my lovely bed, however, nothing beats Vietnam. It's awesome here, and I don't expect to be leaving anytime soon!

For many many many more photos of these beautiful children and the occassional photo of me, check out Facebook, but I cannot upload too many here.

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LOVE.
CAT.