Sep 2008

Ok, so being in Vietnam, obviously means that people are speaking Vietnamese right. And when you live in the LEAST touristy part of Hanoi and when you are the only white person inhabiting the district, you can only expect that nobody speaks English. If they do, it's very limited.

My local restauranteur is (so I asssume) a husband and wife team, who offer noodles, rice...... oh, wait, just noodles and rice. Although its not how much they offer, it's what they DO with it that counts. There are many varieties of the normal fried rice and steaming bowl of pho (refer previous posts for definition of 'pho').

A usual hello goes along the lines of me saying "chao ang" and "chao chi" (hello older brother, hello older sister) but to be honest I think maybe I should be calling them "chu" and "co" because I think they may be almost as old as my parents. It's hard to tell. Anyway, then the woman asks how I am in Vietnamese etc. and asks what I want. I wait for 10 minutes watching traffic go by, listening to Vietnamese music, looking at the impressive cooking skills of the chefs.

When I mean restaurant, and chef, I really don't mean your typical Australian restaurant. A restaurant just means a building or shop that sells food. They do that. But it's different. The floor's are dirty, there's no paint, I sit on plastic chairs eating on a wooden table. But, it's typical. That's what I like. Normality. Because normality here is not normality in Australia. It's different. Understand?

Today, when I paid for lunch I gave them hai moui ninh (20,000 VND), but to my surprise they gave me nam ninh back (5000 VND). So I figured that at first they were overcharging by 5000 VND and now they know that I'm a regular they are charging me normal prices. But it's still cheap either way. 15,000 VND is around a dollar.

So that is one experience with language. Every meal at that restaurant is a fun and exhiliarating experience because you get a rush of satisfaction when you can communicate with someone that cannot speak your language. It is rather satisfying indeed.

In terms of communication, the daily entertainment that I get out of the security guards of my building (guard the bikes) and the couple of xe om drivers (refer previous posts for definition of 'xe om') is also lots of fun.

When you bring a bike in to the parking area, you have to take a ticket and when you take it out, give them the ticket and 2000 VND. But today, today was special. All in Vietnamese, and me only speaking basically in English except for the numbers, I managed to purchase a monthly ticket for 15 000 VND all by myself. This allows me to come and go without having to pay 2000 VND every time.

But to add to the spectacular (this alone took 5 minutes), Anh, the main parking guard, gave me a kiss on the forehead. Not once, not twice, but three times. And I'm sure, it's all in good spirits, as I am actually the only foreigner in a 5 kilometre radius. But he did no harm, and it only made me laugh. Laughter is always good.

My point is, is that the power of communication is incredible, even if you do not speak the other language. Every morning I go and "talk" with 2 year old toddlers to attempt to teach some English. When I leave, every single task and every errand I run takes patience, understanding and respect.

Respect for the people of this country.
Respect for the land.
Respect for the culture, the tradition, and the Vietnamese way of life.
Respect for the normalities here that are probably considered "strange" in Australia.
Respect for every moment that I get to be here in this beautiful country.

As Sting sings ever so gently, I'm walking in Fields of Gold every single second of this life.

Love.
Cat.

Anywhere around South East Asia and you will notice the prevalence of whitening products on the shelves of supermarkets, in small family run chemists and advertised on massive “hi tech” electronic billboards.

By whitening products I mean cosmetics (predominantly used by women) that whitens the user’s skin colour. They are everywhere and anywhere in Vietnam. Even in transit through Indonesia, I sat at the airport watching gazillions of T.V. advertisement’s devoted to and promising to colour a woman’s skin.

While South East Asia is obsessed with whitening their skin, the Western world has this factuation with darkening their skin to the point of having products that will achieve this.

Here’s an example of the products that you could expect to see in a standard supermarket in Vietnam: whitening foundation (huh?), whitening deodorant (huh? huh? huh?), whitening sunscreen (ok fair enough), whitening body wash, whitening body moisturiser, and whitening/anti-ageing/skin softener/sunscreen day cream (wow, I didn’t know a product could do so much).

Meanwhile, in a supermarket in Australia (and I would say other parts of the “Western” world), you could find: bronzer for the face, many different dark shades of foundation, fake tan, moisturiser that if used every day “gradually” tans your skin, and of course, the solarium, found in gyms, salons and the like.

I really do find it ironic that darker people want to be lighter, and lighter people want to be darker. In a world where the African population were once kept as slaves and Aboriginal Australian’s once suffered because the government considered them inferior, do we really find it necessary (and attractive) to change our colour?

I’ve met girls here who have used whitening products and their skin has suffered because of the amount of chemicals. I have met girls in Australia who use solariums and tanning products, and it may come to bite them in the bum later on with the risk of skin cancer and bad reactions (Remember _____ the girl who died the Asian girl).

The ridiculous thing is, is that traveller’s that come here actually laugh at the amount of whitening products. Why? Westerner’s are just the same. Seeking the ideal product that tans their skin, hoping to make themselves more attractive to their friends, their lovers, and their family.

But to be honest, nobody chooses their friends, their lovers or their spouse based on how dark or white they are. Do they?

Colour. So many different colours, yet so much confusion over what’s perfect.

During the Hitler Regime, the Germans persecuted the Jews for their faith.

It wasn’t until 1926 that all women were allowed to vote and sit in parliament in Australia, and it wasn’t until 1962, that Aboriginal Australian’s were given this right.

In America, the African American Civil Rights Movement will forever be embedded in their history.

And in South Africa, the memories of the Apartheid Policy still reigns over those who suffered.

But now, in 2008, past a time where all those things aforementioned are NOT APPLICABLE (yet never forgotten), and we continually grow as a planet becoming more accepting each day; we still find the need to change our colour to seek “perfection”.

Is it really that important?

Or at the end of the day, is it always a matter of colour?

Love.
Cat.

P.S. Get outside Australians, I can see the sun.

P.P.S. Get inside Vietnamese, the sun is still burning.

Ok, to be honest, I have never actually gone outside and danced in the rain persay. But I have ran in the rain. And it's fantastic. I can't run in the morning (too tired/lazy), and I can't run at night when it has cooled down (too dark), so today, now that it is raining and a cool 26 degrees, I have the opportunity to go out and run. It's cool, plus, you don't start sweating like crazy.

(If your thinking, "Why can't you run in the dark?", think again. The footpaths here have potholes down to underground water systems, bumps, grooves and unfinished construction, plus motorbikes, bicycles, street vendors, and everything else that could block your path or make you fall into unknown territory)

The Vietnamese really have an issue with rain. Ponchos, and raincoats, and 10cent pieces of plastic with holes for arms and head create this sea of colour on the streets when it's wet. They hate the rain. Girls hate getting their hair wet (well dah, their silky, smooth, straight hair just can't get wet), so they carry umbrella's on their bicycles rather than using the somewhat odd looking raincoat. There's a massive market for rainwear. The more expensive poncho style raincoat's have a clear square on the front so you can put it over the handlebars of your bike and still see the dashboard.

But when I'm out in the rain, just enjoying the water and the cool weather, you just know what other's are thinking. "Why oh why, would she want to get wet?"

But I love it. Rain is fantastic. Just not when it's stormy, and dangerous, and there are floods. But a little bit has done no harm, and if I could, I would send some down to Melbourne.

Love.
Cat.

P.S. As much as I love rain, it has delayed my trip to Sapa this weekend. There is a high risk of flood and could get dangerous. So, hopefully next week. But then again, I need to run more - so bring on the rain!

P.P.S. Dad, Mum, & Tim: Right now, I'm listening to "Bachman Turner-Overdrive - You Ain't See Nothing Yet"!!!

I'm not always sure what the Vietnamese way of living is, but I do try. I have even gone to the lengths of buying a face mask for when I cycle and use a xe om (m-bike taxi). All the women, and some men, wear them here, because the pollution is rather excessive, especially around my apartment building. I asked my Vietnamese girlfriend if I looked Vietnamese with it on, and she said that I looked like a thief. I think the local's probably think that I am a foreigner who is trying TOO hard to fit in. But that's exactly what I am doing. Trying to adopt the Vietnamese lifestyle and completely immerse myself in this culture.

There are two types of expats. Not just in Vietnam, but this would probably go for other countries as well. The Western expats, who do not change their lifestyle to suit the country, rather they live how they live in their home country, eating the same food, mingling with only expats, and don't see the need to learn the Vietnamese language. The "Vietnamese" expats, who try and learn some Vietnamese, live locally on market food and small family run restaurants, and live in fairly standard Vietnamese accommodation, that is rather cheap.

I'm not saying that one way is better than the other, but I choose the latter.

I'm not really sure why I'm so different from others. But I always have been. I never went to university, or got my driving license, then I left all my friends and all my family for a country that not many people my age go to to live.

My English "student's", who I constantly refer to as "my babies" (some of them aren't even 2 years old), each have there very own unique personality and learning style. They are all so different.

Bob, is this quiet little (ok, not little, he's rather heavy) boy who loves being in things, under things, on things, and just lying down on anything interesting. Lying on tables, chairs, on the steps, on a pile of toys - this is what interests him.

Minh, is so destructive. He loves throwing things, hitting things, and generally causing a ruckus. But he's strong, he never cries.

Bill used to cry all the time. I mean all the time. He never stopped. But one day, he just didn't cry. Not once. Today I saw him laughing for the first time. And all I did was wave a piece of string in front of him. It's amazing that something so simple can make a child laugh. But it was very nice to see him laughing.

Vit never cries. She is a strong girl. She is the smartest also. She will repeat every single word that you say, and try really hard, because she loves getting a smile and a clap from me from repeating an English word. She already knows blue and red off by heart!

Lu Chia, the little Taiwanese girl who doesn't speak any Vietnamese or English. But she loves showing me things, showing me a toy, or a picture, or point at the roof. Rather random, but she grabs my hand and pulls me places. And when I don't give her attention, then she thinks about her mother, then cries. So it's a little hard, but she's my favourite. She said thankyou today, her first English word. She hasn't even said anything in Vietnamese yet, so that was really fantastic to hear.

They all are so different, and that's what I love. The hard thing is, is being able to respond to their individual likes and dislikes to be able to actually "teach" them something.

But my job is incredible. I work in the morning's teaching "my babies" for 20 minutes of English and another hour or so of music and dance, and free play time.

Yes, the children are only 2, but that age is the best time to learn language. They really soak it all up, and some days they will surprise me by saying something that I didn't even think I had taught! One of the student's can say my name (Cat-a-zin) to his mother, but not to me yet. He is so unresponsive to me in class, so I was really glad to hear that from his mother.

Everyday my want to learn Vietnamese is greater. I am used to not understanding anything (or only a few words) every conversation I hear and words I see on menus and signs, but now it's gettting a little frustrating. I actually want to learn it. So I will.

The problem with Vietnamese, is that because it's a tonal language, when you really think that you have mastered the pronunciation of a phrase or word, you "practice" it on a Vietnamese person, then they look at you confused saying "Khong biet" (I don't understand). I tried to tell my xe om driver yesterday "Ten toi la Catherine" (My name is Catherine), but he just looked at me as if I was insane. So I gave up. Those type of situations really do shatter my confidence, and deter me from even trying to speak Vietnamese, but I can't give up now! But I met him again in the lift, going up to my apartment, and I got a little further with trying to say my name. It was quite funny, him talking in Vietnamese, then me in English, pretending we could understand each other.

The food here is fantastic. I have found a local restuarnat that serves incredible "pho bo" (beef noodle soup) and "com rang thap cam" (mixed fried rice) and a few other things. Each meal is only 20,000 VND ($1.40). I prefer to eat out, it's so quick and cheap and it sure beats my rather boring cooking.

There is a big shopping centre/supermarket just near my apartment building. A couple minutes walk. It's called Big C, and big it is. The actual supermarket is like a mega giant Wal-mart style thing that you would see in the US. I went there (stupidly) after work and dinner yesterday (Sat 9pm) to stock up on some fruit. But my goodness me, that was one of the worst decisions I've ever made. Safeway and Coles customers, stop your whingeing! The queues there at peak times are nothing like the lines here. You can't even move to get into a line. It's a bit crazy. But after 40 minutes, I walked out with $7 worth of fruit. But it was worth it in the end, as now I don't have to go back there for another week. You also have to brace yourself for when you walk out the door. Especially as one of the only foreigner's in the entire building, I am bombarded with offers for xe oms and car taxi's. 10 taxi's lined up in a row, and I have to refuse them all individually. They don't seem to understand that when I say no to the first, I mean no to all.

Photos in Vietnam are interesting - you can't take photos in supermarkets, or basically anywhere. I snuck in one photo at a supermarket of an interesting product.

Cat Fingers! Yay! With photos of real kittens. Delicious.

When I went down to my bicycle yesterday there was a rooster or some sort of bird in a tiny cage. He was going insane, looking around moving his head really fast, not knowing what to do. He had a tiny bit of water and a little food. But he's still there. 2 days later. It's quite sad, but I'm not sure what I can do. Any suggestions? Should I be doing anything? After all, this isn't my country, I need to be respectful. But then again, seeing things like that really really really disturbs me. But that's not the worst of the animal stories. I've seen 10 pigs tied down on the back of a motorbike still alive, and 20 dogs not even a year old thrown into a cage on the back of a motorbike. Dogs are very expensive here (to eat I mean - the dog meat). I'm glad it's expensive, but it's a specialty unfortunately.

Work is only 5 minutes cycle/20 minute walk from the apartment. I prefer to cycle, and try and blend in with a shirt and face mask, then I don't get stared at as much. But for a about a week, I was put off from cycling at all. I had a rather nasty bicycle accident. I was cycling and a school boy just cycled into my bike. I fell off my bike, lay on the road for quite a few seconds, and after being laughed at, some men decided to help me up. But that's not meant to put an image in your mind that the Vietnamese are impolite, as they are not, but there are so many accidents on the road here, particularly with foreigner's that it's rather normal. It's really tempting to go buy a scooter, especially when they are so cheap and so easy to get. But I won't, so stop worrying parentals.

I'm living in a 2 bedroom apartment in a completely Vietnamese building with a Vietnamese woman. Her English is fantastic and she is also fluent in French, and is a very interesting person.

I've started visiting some new places in Hanoi, seeing if there is any nightlife.

I've been to a few bars/clubs, and they are very Western, but there's a good mix of Vietnamese people and Western expats and travellers. The problems is in Hanoi (and Saigon also, but the police are more strict in Hanoi), any bar or club open past 12am is technically illegal. Every once in a while, the police will crackdown and raid a venue on any paritcular night and close down the venue and arrest all the locals. The foreigner's are normally let off ok. The language barrier is to difficult.

When you see police in Hanoi, you know that you are in a communist country. They drive through the streets in this army style truck, with 10 police in the back, and the driver speaks through a loudspeaker giving orders to street vendors and local Vietnamese. "Move your taxi" or "Get that off the street" - anything that doesn't comply with their laws. The laws here are strict yes, but they are rarely enforced.

On a lighter note, the Hanoi Botanical Gardens are lovely, but nowhere near as nice as Melbourne's. I did still enjoy it though. It was amazing the amount of bride's in the gardens. Everywhere. I saw maybe 10-15 couples getting their wedding photos done on the one day.

As much as I love the Vietnamese people and their country, it's nice to be able to speak to Aussie's every once in a while. At my work there are 2 other Aussie teacher's, and it's fantastic being able to speak fast with them, and crack jokes or quotes that only Aussie's will understand (ok, I'm not that funny). I've sort of grown accustomed to speaking English slowly, and speaking very basic English, but now that I have met some more Westerner's I can talk at a million miles an hour and be understood. It's a luxury you take for granted.

Most things in Australia I took for granted until I came here. The manicured gardens, the smooth footpaths and no potholes (and the ability to get compensation if you fall over on one), the quiet roads with working traffic lights, the clean air, the ability to speak English everywhere and air conditioning.

But, that being said, it doesn't mean I'm coming home. I've already grown accustomed to this life, to this routine, and I love it. It's a decision I will never regret. Plus, I'm still young.

Dad, when I come home, I will still be your baby.

Love.
Cat.