Mum came to Hanoi for two weeks during December and over my birthday. We had lot's of fun, the weather was good, and she made some very interesting observations.........
THE FIRST THINGS THAT I NOTICED AFTER ARRIVING AT NOI BAI AIRPORT IN HANOI AND BEING DRIVEN TO CAT’S APARTMENT are that there are way more motorbikes on the road than anything else. (150cc or under are the only legal motorbikes) There are also many old bicycles still on the roads and less cars. The most noticeable thing though, is the continuous noise of vehicle horns tooting constantly for the whole of our journey as well.(especially our taxi driver!)
There are different levels of honking noise. Bicycles can’t honk, but everyone honks at them. Motorbikes honk their horns. Motorcars honk louder and are more insistent. Trucks and buses are more aggressive and you move for them.
The drivers on the roads have no choice but to toot their horns because there don’t appear to be many road rules. It’s everyman for himself if you drive on the roads around Hanoi.
ROAD RULES - THERE’S PROBABLY ONLY ONE.
GO AND DON’T HIT ANYONE ELSE.
The object of driving on the road in Hanoi is to reach your destination through an obstacle course of other drivers without hitting anyone else. This is achieved by vehicles weaving in and out of each other (without indicating), driving on the wrong side of the road, passing each other with barely room to spare, stopping for the occasional red light if you must and turning with no warning in front of another vehicle.
Traffic is slow, only around 30 -40 kph but that’s fast enough in this situation.
You see drivers talking on their mobile while driving their motorbike with one hand through a busy intersection of motorbikes approaching from all directions.
You see whole families on their motorbikes with the children squeezed between their parents or sitting in front of dad hanging on to the handlebars.
You see motorbikes and bicycles loaded up with huge cartons or animals strung together on the back.
My first impression of the traffic was of disorganised chaos but now I realise it is more like organised chaos. After spending time riding around on the back of Cat’s motorbike, I’ve discovered in its own weird way, the system of driving on the roads works somehow, but it is definitely not relaxing. It’s noisy and the air is always smoggy. Most women ride with masks over their mouths. (The men are tough and don’t bother!)
I thought Melbourne was smoggy but I’m not used to this, and since I’ve been here I’ve had a continual sore throat and cough, which I reckon is due to the polluted air.
The first couple of times I was nervous riding on the back of the Cat‘s motorbike, but now I’m used to the traffic. Cat’s a really good driver and she knows her way around really well. I think she’d be good at Trail bike riding too after driving on some of the roads here. Some of the roads are full of holes and unsealed with loose stones. At night time, it’s freezing on the motorbike, so we have to rug up. It’s Winter here and temperatures are ranging from 14 deg min to 23 max. (Very similar to Melbourne weather at the moment)
It will be interesting to see how long it will be as vehicle numbers increase before road rules will have to be enforced. You know, rules such as stopping at stop signs, (instead of treating them as a suggestion that you might like to think about stopping) giving way to pedestrians at pedestrian crossings, wearing helmets with the straps done up, limiting motorbikes to one driver and one passenger instead of a family of 6, banning transport of household furniture, pigs, cartons, beds etc on the back of a motorbike.
Today, Cat told me that the government may introduce a strategy to ban people under 40kg from motorbikes that are over 50cc. This fantastic radical new plan will mean that if a policeman sees a suspiciously lightweight person on a motor bike over 50cc, he can stop the driver, whip out the bathroom scales and weigh that person. Unfortunately, for the tiny Vietnamese women, this means that some may have to go on a carbo-loaded junk food western diet to put on weight, so they can legally ride their motorbikes.
I’ve been here for over a week now and am still amazed at the sights on the roads. I haven’t worked out how tiny toddlers clinging to their mother don’t fall off the motorbike .I don’t like seeing live animals caged up and tied onto the back of the bikes. A lot of people talk on their mobiles and write text messages while driving. (well, that’s just like Melbourne except that we’re in cars. It’s interesting to see young Vietnamese women wearing their fashionable clothes and high heels on their motorbike. The women are so small, they can easily fit 3 to a bike.
Driving through Hanoi traffic is an experience to remember, that’s for sure!
EXTREME SPORT IN HANOI
WALKING ACROSS THE ROAD
This is something that has taken me a while to master, but I am proud to say that I can now cross a road by myself.
When you decide to have that first adrenalin pumping experience of crossing the road, wait for a small gap in the traffic nearby and step off the kerb, aiming for the other side. (There are no pedestrian crossings that anyone takes notice of, so forget that as a means of getting across the road) Now, walk casually with no sudden movements and look straight ahead or very gently turn your head to the side. Beware, stepping into the path of a bus, car or truck as it is downright stupid, so don’t do it.
There are traffic lights in very busy areas, so it’s easier to cross the road, but beware the odd motorbike who isn’t too concerned about road rules.
Note - If you come from Australia, NZ or England where we drive on the other side of the road, you will need to remember to look left first. Don’t forget this important rule!
Hanoian drivers, although impatient to get to their destination will drive around you rather than aim at you and will let you through. (well, so far they have!)
You could practice your crossing skills around the Old Quarter where the streets are narrow and there’s less cars. However, it will probably be a while before you are a true seasoned local, who can walk across a major intersection in peak hour with traffic coming from all directions. (yes, I have seen it!)
Anne.
From Cat:
Here are some photos from Mum's time in Hanoi.
The traffic (not the peak hours but still busy)
Here's Mum and I carrying our bags and my birthday flowers back to my apartment - Vietnamese style!
At the local bar.....
On the lake..,
And visiting Hoa Lo prison....
It was great having you here Mum!
15 °C
21 °C
